Tuna Auction @ Toyosu Market, Tokyo, Japan
Since its move from the original Tsukiji market in Q4 of 2018, the Tuna Auction was finally open to public viewing again from January 2019 at its new location in Toyosu. While planning for our trip to Tokyo in February, we found out that we could get a chance to view the auction in close proximity!
Viewing the Tuna Auction
There are two ways in which you can view the tuna auction, one from the upper viewing gallery (a level above the auction floor), the other from the lower viewing deck (on the same level as the auction floor).
1) Upper viewing gallery
You can easily view the tuna auction from a gallery that is located one floor above the auction floor. No pre-registration is needed. You just have to show up in the morning, get a visitor pass (you'll be handed one before you step into the area) and find your way to the gallery.
While the auction starts around 5.45AM, entry to the upper viewing gallery is open from 5AM, and you'd probably want to be there early to get a good spot -- it could get crowded! The area is relatively quiet, and you won't be able to hear much of what's going on, but there are information boards around that explains what the buyers/sellers are doing.
2) Lower viewing gallery
There's a flight of stairs from the upper viewing gallery that takes you down to a deck that's much closer to the auction floor. However, access is limited and has to be applied for beforehand (see next section for more details).
You would be on a semi-enclosed deck that is only a few meters from the nearest tuna, separated by a few glass panels (that don't extend all the way). You'll be able to hear the sounds of the auction and feel the chilliness of the auction floor - it was a completely different experience as compared to the upper viewing gallery! There will typically also be volunteers on site who speak both Japanese and English. There was an ojii-san with us when we visited, and he was more than happy to explain the process to us as the action happened.
How do I get access to the lower viewing deck to view the Tuna Auction up close?
From what I know, you can either sign up for a private tour (very pricey), or try your luck at a ballot which allows you free access!
For the ballot, there are 10-minute slots between 5.45AM and 6.15AM, and only 120 applicants will be successful each day (which averages out to about 30 people per slot).
Applications for the slots will be open a month prior, for about a week. I.E. if you're visiting in Feb, applications will be in Jan. You can register via this website (scroll all the way down, under "Application from overseas for "Early morning Tuna auction at Toyosu Market"")
You register using an email, no local phone number is required. You can't change your dates after you get a slot, so make sure you select the right dates!
You register using an email, no local phone number is required. You can't change your dates after you get a slot, so make sure you select the right dates!
Submitting an application DOES NOT mean you get a slot. Once you submit your application, you'll get an email confirming that they received your request. About a week after the application closes, if you do successfully get a slot, you'll be notified via email. Fingers crossed!
How to get there?
While we love Google Maps and its precision in Japan, we still had difficulties finding the place, especially when it was 5AM in the morning. Surprise surprise, we were late and terribly lost.
We pinned the location of our bus stop and made our way there 15 minutes earlier, only to find out we couldn't find the bus stop stated on the maps and had no idea where to catch the bus. We spotted a group of people standing in line in the middle of nowhere and just assumed that they were going to Toyosu Market because... I mean where could they be going at 5AM in the morning? Fortunately we guessed right, and ended up finding our bus towards Toyosu!
Then we faced another problem - which building do we head towards?
Credits: japan-guide
Go towards the Fish Wholesale Market Building (Block 7) (bottom left of the image). If you came directly from Shijomae station, you'll be able to exit the station and walk directly to the building. If you took a bus (like us) and ended up at a bus stop, you'll have to find an elevator up to the 3rd floor before entering the building.
Don't walk towards the building while on the ground floor, you won't be able to find an elevator up. We asked some ground staff and was told to walk towards the cross junction (near the train station).
From there, you'll find an elevator/flight of stairs up. Just follow the path and you'll be able to find the Fish Wholesale Market building.
Once you enter the building, you'll see shops/restaurants on either side of the walkway, and as you continue walking there will be a visitor hall on information of the tuna fishing and auction. Right at the end, you'll find a security personnel with a table full of visitor tags. Once you see that, you'll know you're in the right place.
If you didn't manage to get a slot for the lower viewing deck, at this point you can simply get a visitor tag and cross the bridge into the upper viewing gallery to view the auction from above.
If you did manage to get a slot, you'll have to gather at Toyosu Market, Fish Wholesale Market Building (Block 7), PR Center @ 3rd floor. From there, you'll get your registration done and be led to the lower viewing deck during your time slot. Don't forget to bring an ID so they are able to verify your identity on site. If not, I believe the email that they sent to you for the ballot confirmation will suffice as well. If you get lost, there will always be people around whom you'll be able to ask! Most of the staff on site know English, so there shouldn't be a problem in communicating with them.
Since we were late and had no idea where to go, we asked a staff on site and after some walkie-talkie comms, we were promptly led to the upper viewing gallery where we were met by another staff, who then checked our names off the list and brought us down directly to the lower viewing deck. We got lucky, we got there at about 6AM (even though we were supposed to gather at 5.30AM) but still managed to find our way in! Surprisingly, there were very few visitors while we were there on Feb 18th (Monday), only a total of 8 of us.
What goes on during the auction?
On a typical day, tuna bidders usually have about 30 mins to inspect the tuna on the ground before bidding starts. Fun fact: The floor of the auction floor is green to allow for better contrast of colors to better assess the quality of the fish!
At about 5.45AM, bells will start ringing, signalling the start of the auction. You will hear auctioneers yelling (I would guess, prices) at potential buyers, who would stand around and indicate their price and interest with raised fingers.
Once a tuna is sold, it's marked and slapped on with a piece of yellow paper which indicates the price at which it was sold at. The group then moves on to the next neatly lined up row of fish.
If you've heard of some ridiculously priced tuna at the auctions, those typically happen at the "first auction" of the year. The first auction of the year is usually a big event as people celebrate the new year. As the press and media will be present to cover the event, larger companies tend to outbid at high prices to secure the tuna that they're eyeing, and also for free exposure and publicity, both locally and internationally. On top of that, it is considered an honor to be able to purchase the first bluefin tuna of the new year, and getting the bid reflects a win in that aspect.
In 2019, the highest priced tuna at the first auction was $3 million USD. Imagine that, an entire bluefin tuna that could buy you three condominiums in Singapore (gosh).
The same company (that runs Sushi Zanmai) also had the highest bid in 2013, at a whopping $1.8m. The owner, Kiyoshi Kimura, reported back then that the tuna will be sold at a loss of about $4.60 per serving. Despite so, he has consistently "achieved" the highest bid in the first auctions for many years. Really makes you wonder how powerful the advertising potentially is.
Although it was a pain to get up at 5AM and find our way there, it was pretty cool to be able to witness something that's a huge part of the Japanese cuisine. Try your luck out at the ballot, if not, you can always take a peek at the auction from the upper floor and head to Sushi Daiwa afterwards for some sushi :) (Don't bother going to Sushi Dai at that time, the space is smaller and turnover is smaller, you'll have to wait for hours to get a spot)
Don't walk towards the building while on the ground floor, you won't be able to find an elevator up. We asked some ground staff and was told to walk towards the cross junction (near the train station).
Once you enter the building, you'll see shops/restaurants on either side of the walkway, and as you continue walking there will be a visitor hall on information of the tuna fishing and auction. Right at the end, you'll find a security personnel with a table full of visitor tags. Once you see that, you'll know you're in the right place.
If you didn't manage to get a slot for the lower viewing deck, at this point you can simply get a visitor tag and cross the bridge into the upper viewing gallery to view the auction from above.
If you did manage to get a slot, you'll have to gather at Toyosu Market, Fish Wholesale Market Building (Block 7), PR Center @ 3rd floor. From there, you'll get your registration done and be led to the lower viewing deck during your time slot. Don't forget to bring an ID so they are able to verify your identity on site. If not, I believe the email that they sent to you for the ballot confirmation will suffice as well. If you get lost, there will always be people around whom you'll be able to ask! Most of the staff on site know English, so there shouldn't be a problem in communicating with them.
Since we were late and had no idea where to go, we asked a staff on site and after some walkie-talkie comms, we were promptly led to the upper viewing gallery where we were met by another staff, who then checked our names off the list and brought us down directly to the lower viewing deck. We got lucky, we got there at about 6AM (even though we were supposed to gather at 5.30AM) but still managed to find our way in! Surprisingly, there were very few visitors while we were there on Feb 18th (Monday), only a total of 8 of us.
What goes on during the auction?
On a typical day, tuna bidders usually have about 30 mins to inspect the tuna on the ground before bidding starts. Fun fact: The floor of the auction floor is green to allow for better contrast of colors to better assess the quality of the fish!
At about 5.45AM, bells will start ringing, signalling the start of the auction. You will hear auctioneers yelling (I would guess, prices) at potential buyers, who would stand around and indicate their price and interest with raised fingers.
Nothing can beat his enthusiasm at 6AM in the morning
Once a tuna is sold, it's marked and slapped on with a piece of yellow paper which indicates the price at which it was sold at. The group then moves on to the next neatly lined up row of fish.
If you've heard of some ridiculously priced tuna at the auctions, those typically happen at the "first auction" of the year. The first auction of the year is usually a big event as people celebrate the new year. As the press and media will be present to cover the event, larger companies tend to outbid at high prices to secure the tuna that they're eyeing, and also for free exposure and publicity, both locally and internationally. On top of that, it is considered an honor to be able to purchase the first bluefin tuna of the new year, and getting the bid reflects a win in that aspect.
In 2019, the highest priced tuna at the first auction was $3 million USD. Imagine that, an entire bluefin tuna that could buy you three condominiums in Singapore (gosh).
The same company (that runs Sushi Zanmai) also had the highest bid in 2013, at a whopping $1.8m. The owner, Kiyoshi Kimura, reported back then that the tuna will be sold at a loss of about $4.60 per serving. Despite so, he has consistently "achieved" the highest bid in the first auctions for many years. Really makes you wonder how powerful the advertising potentially is.
Although it was a pain to get up at 5AM and find our way there, it was pretty cool to be able to witness something that's a huge part of the Japanese cuisine. Try your luck out at the ballot, if not, you can always take a peek at the auction from the upper floor and head to Sushi Daiwa afterwards for some sushi :) (Don't bother going to Sushi Dai at that time, the space is smaller and turnover is smaller, you'll have to wait for hours to get a spot)
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